Fresh off sapping the water from a Pacific island and flogging pomegranate juice with questionable health claims, Stewart and Lynda Resnick, the billionaire couple behind Fiji Water and POM Wonderful, are profiting off pistachios and almonds with the same combination of marketing genius and opportunistic water grabs amid California's worst drought on record
For over four years a record-breaking drought has scorched central California with Old Testament cruelty. Drive west of Bakersfield into the heart of the San Joaquin Valley and soon you will be engulfed by sloping brown hills broken up by dusty, slate-coloured fields. Desolate little towns off the highway dot the parched landscape. Lost Hills (population 2,412) consists largely of a tamale shack, a mostly empty James Dean-themed shop, a dilapidated tyre store and a rundown pool hall.
Yet, there is an Eden. It’s a little to the west of Lost Hills, off Route 33. Here there are rows upon rows of green—some 70,000 lush acres of water-hungry pistachio and almond trees. Come at the right time of the year, and you’ll see the almond trees blossoming, covering the valley in a blanket of light pink petals. This land belongs to the billionaire Resnicks, Stewart, 77, and Lynda, 72. It’s the most valuable part of their $4.3 billion fortune. Those crops and the land are worth more than ever before, about $3 billion.
Their oasis has plenty of water, the result of relentless opportunism that has given their orchards access to more water than nearly any other farm during the worst drought on record in California’s history. The Resnicks use at least 120 billion gallons a year, two-thirds on nuts, enough to supply San Francisco’s 852,000 residents for a decade. They own a majority stake in the Kern Water Bank, one of California’s largest underground water storage facilities, which they got fairly but sagely from the government 20 years ago. It is capable of storing 500 billion gallons of water. They have also spent at least $35 million in recent years buying up more water from nearby districts to replenish their supplies.
The Resnicks, who live in a nine-bedroom mansion in Beverly Hills and fly into the valley about once or twice a month, are crafty dealmakers and even finer marketers. In addition to the pistachios and almonds, their company, renamed Wonderful in June, owns 32,000 acres of California citrus, flower-delivery service Teleflora, POM Wonderful pomegranate juice and Fiji Water, which collectively brought in $3.8 billion in sales last year. By their own estimates, almost half of American households buy their products.
Not everyone is eager to fill their pantry with a Resnick brand. Agriculture’s king and queen have a history of commandeering natural resources in pursuit of profit, and their actions in Fiji—where they annually fill millions of plastic bottles with water and then ship them thousands of miles across the world while residents haven’t always had access to potable water themselves—have already infuriated environmentalists. Now they are being vilified in California for their water use in the ongoing drought. “Ninety-nine percent of us are being asked to take cuts for the one percent: Stewart Resnick,” says Barbara Barrigan-Parrilla, executive director of Restore the Delta, a Stockton, California-based non-profit working to protect fisheries and farms in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta.
It’s in the Central Valley where they now have their biggest fight. Stewart first bought land in the area as an investment in the 1970s. Over the next decade, he picked up tens of thousands more acres. When a six-year drought started in 1987 and cost local farmers $800 million, he had much less skin in the game. Still he took note, quickly realising that the contracts he had with the state, which delivered water from the California Aqueduct—a 444-mile-long channel flowing with runoff from the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains—were vulnerable when water was scarce and the state couldn’t meet everyone’s needs.
In what some critics have called secret meetings, some of his most trusted advisors met with leaders from southern California water districts and state water officials, helping broker a sweetheart deal in 1994. Two decades later, it still gives the Resnicks nearly unrivalled access to water. Wonderful denies the meetings were done clandestinely, alleging that those who say so have an “axe to grind”. The upshot of that meeting: California handed over public land and an underground aquifer (former farmland and oilfields that had the potential to store about 500 billion gallons of water) to five public water districts and the Resnicks’ Westside Mutual Water Co. The new owners agreed to forfeit state water contracts. They then installed a six-mile-long canal and 85 wells at a cost of $50 million. Forbes estimates that the Resnicks’ 57 percent stake in the storage facility is worth at least $250 million.
But their ownership has been under siege, challenged in court nearly continuously for the past two decades. In 2010, the Center for Biological Diversity, a nationwide environmental non-profit group based in Arizona, and several other groups sued the bank and its members, including Westside and the Resnicks’ parent company. A Sacramento County Superior Court judge ruled last year that the state gave up the water resources without properly analysing the potential environmental impacts but dismissed three other allegations—including one challenging the agreement’s constitutionality. The case is now being tried in Sacramento’s Third District Court of Appeal. “We’re warriors out here trying to make sure that a bunch of fat cats don’t suck this state dry,” says Adam Keats, chief lawyer for the opposition, who adds that the Resnicks’ lawyers have “a level of rabidness in protecting their fortunes. They are fiercely defending that golden goose”.
(This story appears in the 11 December, 2015 issue of Forbes India. To visit our Archives, click here.)