At Heidelberg University, the 'prison' is a glimpse into the fun and philosophy that shaped young minds over many decades
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Traditions around Heidelberg continue to celebrate the presence of the university and its students in myriad ways. For instance, back in Old Town, I taste my first ‘Student’s Kiss’. In 1863, Fridolin Knosel, who owned a café, created a chocolate treat that students could give to young women who were attending finishing schools, as a token of affection in an era when public display of romance was discouraged and the women always had a watchful chaperone. If the woman accepted the Student’s Kiss, it indicated that she would like to get to know the young man. Today, shops in Heidelberg still sell this delicious, praline nougat covered in dark chocolate, wrapped in paper emblazoned with the image of a student with a red cap. Then there is the Zum Roten Ochsen, a family-owned pub painted red with blue window shutters and housed in a building that dates back to 1703. This historic student pub has sepia images of fraternity clubs on its walls, and names of students carved on to tables. With live piano music, it has hosted visitors such as Elvis Presley. I enjoy my meal of Käsespätzle (cheese-covered noodles) and a glass of local beer, which seems like the appropriate way to end a day spent on the trail of the students of Heidelberg. At night, the raucous Unter Strasse is lined with open air bars, restaurants and cafes. The vibe is electric, with coloured lights, and the sound of young laughter ringing down the narrow street. In the distance, the castle on the hill stands silhouetted against the indigo skies. The past and the present segue seamlessly at that moment.(This story appears in the 03 January, 2020 issue of Forbes India. To visit our Archives, click here.)