New York Fashion Week unveils a minimalist silhouette boosted by a few touches of bright colour, high-end fabrics, and (once again) plenty of transparency
Are we finally done with the 1990s and 2000s? What materials will be in vogue next winter? What will be the star color? As 2024 gets underway, designers and major fashion houses are busy defining the fashion trends we'll be snapping up in a few months' time. And it was New York that kicked off the festivities, unveiling a minimalist silhouette boosted by a few touches of bright color, high-end fabrics and (once again) plenty of transparency.
It would be wrong to say that pants were totally absent from New York, but the fact remains that dresses—and to a lesser extent, skirts—were everywhere. And that's good news for anyone who can't get into the low-rise cuts that have been trendy for the past few seasons. The Big Apple put the dress firmly in the spotlight, but with no prevailing style. Seen with thin straps, long sleeves or in strapless styles, and with plain finishes or covered in sequins, transparent or embellished with cut-outs, dresses mostly followed the curves of the body, flattering the silhouette. Exceptions included Carolina Herrera, where dresses came in more imposing shapes, and Coach, where they were transformed into oversized hoodies. Note that pants, when present, were more chic and comfortable than ever, in loose-fitting yet sophisticated styles.
New York Fashion Week revived two materials that seemed to have been neglected in recent seasons: leather and, even more so, fur. Whether synthetic or natural, fur was clearly one of the stars of the fall-winter 2024-2025 runway shows, appearing mainly on coats or in small touches on jackets. A trend seen at Michael Kors, Eckhaus Latta, Proenza Schouler and Ulla Johnson. However, most of these pieces made up only a tiny part of the new collections by the above-mentioned designers. Leather, for its part, was an all-round favorite. It stood out for Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who made his New York debut with a tribute to Robert Mapplethorpe, but also at Coach and Helmut Lang, mostly in deep black.
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