Istanbul sits between continents and eras, religions and cultures,boom and bust. Two writers wander its streets
I am not a terrorist or a thief; I am only trying to help you. This is a new one.
Walking through the Sultanahmet area on an autumn morning, I am accosted by many men offering their services, from proposing to act as unauthorised guide inside the Topkapi Palace to taking me to the cheapest and best place for carpets. Most of them go away when ignored. I don’t think they expect to be taken seriously; it just seems to be one of the things Turkish men do to pass time during the long off-season days.
There is something about Turkish men. And it is not just now. Look at the Topkapi Palace, built in the mid 15th century. The star attraction is the Harem Tour. An entire area devoted to the Sultan’s private proclivities, his wives and concubines and their affairs; that is where I head first. At the entrance to the Harem, the tour guide is saying something in French, his group is in splits at what must have been an obviously lewd reference to the activities within the Harem. Or so I imagine, mentally composing harem jokes as I walk in. With so many women competing for the Sultan’s affections, and for the throne for their male offspring, the palace must have been abuzz with political activity at all times.
(This story appears in the 05 February, 2010 issue of Forbes India. To visit our Archives, click here.)