The country's geography and variety of natural habitats make it a haven for wildlife enthusiasts
The kob, a handsome medium-sized antelope, is Uganda’s national animal
Image: Martin Mecnarowski / Shutterstock
Other than for its gorillas, Uganda rarely finds a mention among favoured African wildlife destinations. The country is still associated with its infamous dictator Idi Amin, who left the nation bankrupt and allowed the destruction of its national parks. But Uganda has made a remarkable recovery and today is one of the best wildlife destinations on the continent, as we find out.
With our driver and guide Martin Okot, we undertake a month-long circuit of the country: From Entebbe, we travel north-east to Jinja, then north to Masindi and Murchison Falls, before turning south along the Rift Valley, returning to our starting point via Lake Mburo.
Mammal Fix
Uganda is different from eastern and southern Africa because it lacks the high concentration of wildlife, with the exception of the Queen Elizabeth (QE) National Park. Situated in the scenic Albertine Rift, bordering lakes Edward and George, fringed by the Rwenzori Mountains that rise more than 5000 m, the 2,000 sq km park has 95 species of mammals, including 25 predators.
On drives through the park, we spot a wide variety of herbivores, such as waterbuck, topi, and buffalo. Uganda’s national animal, the kob, a handsome medium-sized antelope, is abundant. Hippos wallow in and around the many waterways while baboons, one of the 10 primates found here, are easily seen, as are warthogs. We also come across a group of giant forest hogs, the largest wild pig native to wooded habitats in Africa. Our lodge even has a large band of habituated banded mongooses, who patrol their territories and inspect guests with obvious curiosity.
There are now over 1,000 elephants in QE, a significant recovery from the low of around 150 due to poaching during and immediately after the Idi Amin era, though the number is still below the 4,000 mark from the early 1970s. The tragic past is evident in the behaviour of some older elephants who are nervous and sometime aggressive around humans.
Lion numbers, too, have recovered in QE. The most famous are the tree-climbing lions in the southern Ishasha sector, who rest on the limbs of trees during the hottest part of the day. We come close to the Kasenyi pride, in the northeastern sector of QE—with 16 lions, including several cubs—although they are hidden in distant scrubs. However, we see several of the tree-climbing variety in the beautiful and wilder Ishasha area.
Martin is keen to find the spotted hyenas in the southern part of QE. Within a short distance of our lodge, we come upon them at a kill of a kob on an early morning drive. We park the car only metres away, and spend several hours watching the clan in action.
The kill we came across had taken place only minutes before our arrival: The three adults at the carcass are still panting from the exertion, their muzzles dripping with fresh blood. They quickly dismember the dead kob. The clan hierarchy is evident: Lower-ranked animals, sub-adults and the young wait a short distance away until they are called.
More than 60 vultures—hooded, white-backed, Rüppell’s griffon and lappet-faced—descend, and await their turn. But, in a little more than an hour, the only evidence of the dead kob is the skin. Well before the end, the disgusted vultures depart.
Martin says he has only seen this once before. We have been extremely fortunate.
(This story appears in the 07 July, 2017 issue of Forbes India. To visit our Archives, click here.)